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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 25, 2009 22:02:07 GMT -5
I found a 15 gallon RCI racing fuel cell 30 inches long, 9 inches wide ,12inches high it comes with a GM style sending unit
If its not the correct sending unit It will read back wards i was told full tank it will read empty Gm sending units are 0 - 90 OHM The other kind are 90-0 OHM So I am told Im going by what I was told
The price is good
Its cheaper than a good Gas tank skid like Kilby + I will gain departure angle
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Post by ZAEDOCK on Dec 25, 2009 22:15:04 GMT -5
Brian, I love you man, but that was one tough read.
Typical GM sending units are 0-90 ohm. You'd have to see what the factory sending unit is. There might be a way to add parts of the factory unit to the RCI with some Mickey Mousing.
See if RCI makes the correct sending unit. It would probably snap right into the factory harness.
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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 25, 2009 23:08:00 GMT -5
Sorry about the 1st post Joe I Googled sending unit for jeep wrangler TJ It came up a GM unit and it was get this a RCI sending unit It will work 100% for $230 plus a handling charge its worth every penny
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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 26, 2009 17:08:10 GMT -5
I will be needing a fuel pumpI will be getting a inline pump that puts out 70 - 90 psi My question is Does my TJ have a fuel regulator on it ? (Stock pressure is about 30 - 40 psi I think )
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Post by johnsxj on Dec 26, 2009 23:18:03 GMT -5
Starting in '96 all the Jeeps used a fuel regulator that is integral with the pump/sending unit assembly.
You're in the ballpark on the stock pressures.
The most feasible way I see you being able to do this is to get a fuel rail from a '91-'95 engine and run a return line back to that fuel cell. You'll still need to plumb all the emission lines for the evap system (unless you're REAL GOOD friends with your inspection station!)
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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 26, 2009 23:39:13 GMT -5
Starting in '96 all the Jeeps used a fuel regulator that is integral with the pump/sending unit assembly. You're in the ballpark on the stock pressures. The most feasible way I see you being able to do this is to get a fuel rail from a '91-'95 engine and run a return line back to that fuel cell. You'll still need to plumb all the emission lines for the evap system (unless you're REAL GOOD friends with your inspection station!) Would it work buying a regulator and putting it after the pump A Adj regulator is not that bad priced I saw 1 from 30lbs to 80lbs it comes preset at 40 lbs for $89 Then with a bigger throttle body and spacer I will try to boost the Psi I wont be inspecting it this year Im going to try to run without renewing the sticker I ran from November last year to June this year with no sticker at all on the windshield It was my DD then Now I own a Honda Accord I drive it 1 or 2 times during the week to the bank and back maybe 7 miles round trip just to run it every couple of days |
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Post by johnsxj on Dec 26, 2009 23:52:59 GMT -5
Not sure how the '96 up stuff works, but the '95 downs have a vacuum (demand) controlled regulator in the rail.
When you get on the pedal (demand) the regulator increases the pressure so more fuel is squirted by the injectors.
I'd think that would be a better setup than a set regulator.
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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 27, 2009 8:34:10 GMT -5
I read you have to disconect the vacume at the throttle body I think to adj the regulator so you get a true readin I look into it today thank John
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Post by Jon W on Dec 27, 2009 12:11:03 GMT -5
Is there a way to adapt / fit the pump you've got to the cell?
Seems like it would solve some other problems...
JW
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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 27, 2009 12:27:15 GMT -5
The inline fuel pump
$125 the inline regulator is $164 the cell 241 =$530 That will handle the fuel needs in the future I run 40 psi now the Pump wil do 70- 90psi the regulator will handle 30 -70 psi Even with mild Mods bigger thottle body + spacer it will handle more fuel that stock I read those 2 mods will be about 3-7 psi increase
I think I will be going with inline pump + reg. + new fuel lines If you do something Do it Right and do it ONCE
I will be doing more engine mods inthe future Might as well set upfor it now
$530 total cost is not bad for the parts
I do want to set it up for future mods now Instead of doing it twice and costing more money do it and be done with it
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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 27, 2009 12:34:25 GMT -5
Is there a way to adapt / fit the pump you've got to the cell? Seems like it would solve some other problems... JW The only way is cut a hole in the cell and do it that way I dont want to do that I know guys that did and it works fine If I wasnt planning more mods to the engine that will work I am trying to set the jeep up for future mods and only do things once the stock pump+ Reg wont push the fuel I need in up comming years This way it will handle a small block chevy A engine I have at my mechanics  |
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