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Post by jpcamb on Dec 15, 2009 12:28:20 GMT -5
Hi another question,
I currently run a CJ bolt pattern rim with adapters on my TJ, I plan to buy some new rims as I had a major failure of the wheel studs on my front hubs due to the extra weight on the hubs and 33" 12.5 15" SS TSLs used with the spacers. Not sure this was due to smacking into a down tree and getting stuck or if they simply came loose and detonated 4/5 of the wheel studs on the ride home.
Any way, are there beefier studs that can be had to take the added stress of off road tires? Seems like the taper on the threaded part is a bit wimpy considering the weight of the tires. Don't mind to upgrade the lug nuts as well if i don't need to drill the hubs or replace the front hubs...
Also any recommendations on a set of cheap steel rims as well? I run a 4" terraflex coil lift w/ short arm lift and probably need 3.5-4" bs...
thanks
Jeff
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Post by Kurt on Dec 15, 2009 14:37:12 GMT -5
If you change rims and lose the wheel spacers you shouldn't have any further issues.
I abuse my heep with 33's and now 35's on it and never had a wheel stud issue.
(Haven't seen a failure of wheel studs on other rigs either)
Just be sure to torque your lug nuts peridically so they don't loosen up.
Just a hunch....
I *suspect* the wheel spacers didn't use the wheel hub to hold them centered properly and put excess stress on the studs.
Personally I'd stick use a steel rim and not aluminum/alloy. Lou or Dom should have some AR-767's. They are fairly inexpensive.
Just my $0.02
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Post by jpcamb on Dec 15, 2009 14:50:51 GMT -5
Oh come on kurt we all know your 2C is gold.  |
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Post by frank on Dec 15, 2009 17:33:03 GMT -5
Like Kurt said. I would look at a wheel with less backspace to loose the spacer. You didnt say how thick the spacer is. I have the original studs in my front hubs and no issues, with 35s and steel wheels. I believe them to be the factory ones which would make them 35 yrs. old. Some wheels are lug centric and some are hub centric ! I think The TJ is hub centric ? All this gotta be worth and least a quarter ! FjR68
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Post by Chris75 on Dec 15, 2009 19:57:47 GMT -5
Jeff.. I think I paid 218$ for 5 cragar soft 8 rims from summit racing.
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Post by Jon W on Dec 15, 2009 19:58:10 GMT -5
Having helped Jeff install / remove the wheel spacers earlier this year I can testify that they were hub centric and fit very tightly (they were a PITA to take off/re-install). The wheels may not be though, and I'm not sure... I remember going around and torquing all the nuts at the time we worked on the Jeep. My guess would be that the inner nuts loosened up a little and allowed the spacer to shift and break the studs. If you change rims and lose the wheel spacers you shouldn't have any further issues. I abuse my heep with 33's and now 35's on it and never had a wheel stud issue. (Haven't seen a failure of wheel studs on other rigs either) Just be sure to torque your lug nuts periodically so they don't loosen up. Just a hunch.... I *suspect* the wheel spacers didn't use the wheel hub to hold them centered properly and put excess stress on the studs. 2x... Except: I'd avoid the AR-767 wheels... I had them on my 31x10.50 TruXus and didn't think they held up well -- I bent a couple... For a comparable price (to the AR-767, last time I checked) check out the DOT Bassett Racing wheels (which I've got now) and have been pretty happy with. I've been running a 15x7 (w/ a 34x10.50 tire) and 3" of backspacing and had no problems with studs breaking after wheeling them fairly hard for 3+ years... They are stud-centric wheels. Here is the URL: www.bassettwheel.com/dot.htmlBTW - the "CJ bolt pattern" is 5 on 5.5"... JW |
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Post by Kurt on Dec 15, 2009 20:48:05 GMT -5
True the 767's are inexpensive and can get bent if wheeled hard.
I had a set and had to BFH the rim edges a few times to straighten them back.
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Post by Captian Carnage on Dec 16, 2009 2:25:51 GMT -5
I run wheel sapcers with 36 in IROKs and Beadlocks 120 lb a wheel I had no issues with the studs Icheckthemonce a month for the 1 st 3 months always were tight at 90 ft LBS
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Post by jpcamb on Dec 16, 2009 8:35:44 GMT -5
[quote author=nostaw22 board=techstuff thread=4755 post=48813 Here is the URL: www.bassettwheel.com/dot.htmlBTW - the "CJ bolt pattern" is 5 on 5.5"... JW [/quote] I may go with these, I have them now in the 5.5 bolt pattern and like the fact that the valve is out of the way to avoid damage when running. didnt realize they were so cheap... seem pretty durable too... |
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Post by mexgrizzly on Dec 16, 2009 14:22:51 GMT -5
I would suspect that the lug nut holding the spacer on got loose. Was locktite used when you first put the spacers on? I know Spidertrax spacers come with locktite for the spacer to hub lug nuts. I think blue locktite would be adequate for this situation. If you use locktite I don't think you want to retorque after a few mile because this will break the locktite bond. If you do make sure they are not loose, one way to do it would be to reduce the torque wrench setting by 20 lb-ft, if any of the nuts move, remove it, put new loctite on and retourque it.
Changing to a rim with less backspacing and removing the spacers won't significantly change the stresses on the studs in the hub.
-Andy
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Post by frank on Dec 16, 2009 19:35:47 GMT -5
Good thought Andy: I forgot about the additional forces sticking a wheel out like that. No wonder you were top dog ! FjR68
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Post by Jon W on Dec 16, 2009 22:02:32 GMT -5
Was locktite used when you first put the spacers on? The day I was there I don't recall using locktite on the spacers. JW |
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Post by jpcamb on Dec 17, 2009 7:41:38 GMT -5
Was locktite used when you first put the spacers on? The day I was there I don't recall using locktite on the spacers. JW we actually mounted up the inspection tires that day. I didnt use locktite on the studs when I mounted the spacers.  stupid newbie..... |
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Post by ZAEDOCK on Dec 17, 2009 8:28:35 GMT -5
Weld the wheel to the hub. Man, what a prank that would be.....  |
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Post by jpcamb on Dec 17, 2009 8:47:07 GMT -5
Weld the wheel to the hub. Man, what a prank that would be..... you laugh but those stupid donut stock ires/rims were darn near impossible to get off a week later. Forgot to clean the rear drum hub for better fit and the thing was STUCK. |
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stupid newbie.....
