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Post by Kevin W. on Dec 28, 2005 14:20:48 GMT -5
Scott, Doing a budget boost (with or without a BL) is a great starting off point. It is very inexpensive (think the RE BB with shocks is around 200 bucks, maybe 250 now) and you can slowly ease into the sport. How modification friendly is your dealer? This is just something to be aware of when making mods. I personally chose to avoid doing a body lift / motor mount until my three year warranty is out. The general rule for modifications and warranty, is that the dealer needs to prove that your modification caused the specific problem/failure. This is a gray area and each dealer is different. Lets say your axle shaft snaps and you're running larger then stock tires. The dealer can blame your tires. Lets say your driveshaft ujoint wears out at 10,000 miles, the dealer can say its because of your suspension lift altering the driveline angle. If you don't touch the motor mounts or body lift, then the "blame game" ends at the driveshafts. If you have a motor mount lift and something goes wrong with the engine, tranny, t-case, I don't think its inconceivable that the dealer would start blaming your mml. So, That was my blabbing... not trying to scare you about modifications, just making you aware that some dealers SUCK. Others will put the lift on FOR YOU and rock Good luck!
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Post by DOUG® on Jan 7, 2006 15:37:47 GMT -5
I would like to run the Rancho springs and control arms, run those with the BB that is in place now. Combine this with the 1" BL that is already in the Rubi and she'll clear 35s.
2" BB + 1"BL + 2.5" Rancho springs = 5.5" of lift, plenty of room.
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Post by Scott on Jan 7, 2006 15:42:54 GMT -5
2" BB + 1"BL + 2.5" Rancho springs = 5.5" of lift, plenty of room. Doing this would require what other mod's? Drive shafts? MML? Brake lines?
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Post by Scott on Jan 10, 2006 19:23:32 GMT -5
I have started my LIST I have prices on here in-case you guys want to start a fund (JUST KIDDING!) ;D really, the prices are so I can keep track. This particular lift kit includes SHOCKS and SPRINGS thats why it pricey for a 'BB' I've read several reviews on this lift, thats why I've chosen it. anyone have any reservations about it? Skid Plates: Skid Row engine skid JP-0019 $269.00 Skid Row Lower Control Arm Skid Plate Set, JP-0101: $127.00 Rusty's Radiator Skid, JS-TJ88 $50.00 Fabtech Steering box skid, 16119 300 $49.95 Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers $298.00 Lift’s Old Man Emu 2” w/ heavy load springs, 16090 012 $769.95 www.quadratec.com/photos/p18058.JPGCurrie 1” Body lift $99.00 Currie 1” MML $79.95 (if needed) Tire’s ? future mods Teraflex S/T Sway-bar system $399.00 Currie Heavy Duty Tie Rod System $399.95 KC HiLites Hood mount Utility Lite Bar #7404 $305.47 Hi-Lift Jack $62.95 HD Drive shafts
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Post by max on Jan 11, 2006 18:44:56 GMT -5
Scott,
Look into heavy duty weld on LCA skids - Lou has some good ones. I had Dom weld on mine. They are strong and have no bolts or nuts to get sheared off (don't forget it's a skid plate.) Cost from Lou was IIRC ~$25 and Dom took less than an hour to weld them - ~$60. Call and ask Lou about the ones he sold me. I couldn't be happier with them.
Max
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Post by Scott on Jan 11, 2006 20:54:03 GMT -5
Max, I have thought about the weld on skids, They are actually easy to make, I've made them for one of my old Toyota's. I'm looking at bolt on style now because of warranty issues. I'd like to be able to remove them if I have to other wise your absolutely right, the weld on's are better. by the way, I use to be a Steel Worker and HAD access to Arc and MIG welders, 1/2 inch shear and cnc Linde torch stations. Those were the days when I could make anything with FREE steel. to bad it didn't pay crap
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