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Post by Scott on Mar 10, 2006 20:14:19 GMT -5
If I'm going to run 33 x 11.5 BFG M/T's What would be the best size 15" rim (Alloy's) ? Backspacing? Offset?
Any Thoughts about Eagle Alloy wheels?
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Post by Scott on Mar 10, 2006 20:18:06 GMT -5
I Really like these Brand: Eagle Alloys Product Line: Eagle Alloys 203 Series Wheels Rim Diameter (in): 15 in. Rim Width (in): 8.00 in. Backspacing (in): 3.750 in. Offset (mm): -18.00mm Beadlock Functional: No Beadlock Included: No Rim Material: Spun aluminum Center Material: Cast aluminum Wheel Finish: Polished Lug Nut Seat Style: Conical seat Wheel Construction: 2-piece Conical Seat Taper: 60 degree Hub Centric: No Center Cap Included: Yes Load Rating (lbs): 1,580 lbs. Valve Stems Included: No Quantity: Sold individually. I'm thinking they won't work
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Post by tjeff on Mar 10, 2006 20:28:13 GMT -5
What makes you think the will not work. It's a 15 x 8 rim with 3.75 BS. Most guys recommend a 4" BS with 33x12.5 tires. **EDIT** Ohhh, I just looked at the load rating. Those rims are make more for a Honda Civic or Nissan Maxima. ( I should have picked up on that after looking at the pic ;D ) BLING BLING
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eric
Member
Posts: 30
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Post by eric on Mar 10, 2006 20:35:08 GMT -5
No offense, but you'll probably be real mad the first time Mr. Rock "re-arranges" the pattern of the spokes for you. They are nice looking though. -Eric
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Post by Jon W on Mar 10, 2006 21:28:18 GMT -5
I'd stick with something inexpensive and steel... Stay away from aluminum - it will shatter/chip along the bead when you hit a rock. Your wheels are likely to make contact with rocks/mud/dirt, and finishes can be scratched up. (I'm big on function with form coming in a distant 2nd at this point I just bought a new set of Barett Racing 15x8 D-hole off road steelies in black w/ a 3" backspacing for my XJ to run 34x10.50 LTBs. Wranglers have bigger wheel wells so you can go for more backspacing. A nice feature is a tire that sets the valve stem in the center of the wheel (the new Baretts do). My American Racing AR-767 wheels had it on the front edge and I ripped open a valve stem when I hit a rock. JW
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Post by norstar on Mar 10, 2006 22:29:05 GMT -5
Any pic Jon? I like to check out those 3" BS wheels under an XJ with stock flares... You still have stock flares right?
Kai
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Post by Scott on Mar 10, 2006 22:51:12 GMT -5
What's wrong w/ a little BLING, YO This is why I ask these questions, Ideas and Comments! Keep em coming, YO ;D I'm Learning! WORD
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Post by jrcabbral on Mar 10, 2006 22:56:20 GMT -5
11.5 is narrow. 8" width max. I run that with the stock rubi rim. I think the back spacing is 4 5/8. Ideal for bearing life would be 4" on a 8" width. pick a rim with a tall ridge on the inner surface. This will help keep the tire on the rim when running lower tire pressure.
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Post by Kevin W. on Mar 11, 2006 9:04:40 GMT -5
I for one will never run a steel wheel on a daily driver. A steel wheel will never balance as well as an aluminum wheel. Where the alluminum wheel may "chip" a bit away, the steel wheel will bend and be out of round, adding to the balancing nightmare. The difference in weight also affects ride quality, breakage, etc. The only advantage is cost - cheapo black steel wheel is 35-40 bucks. The cheapest aluminum wheel is like 90 bucks. Oddly enough, I would take a black steel wheel for looks - I think the black wheel with black tires looks really nice. For function, I'd stick to the cheapest aluminum wheel you like. If it is NOT a daily driver, then sure, get some 40 buck steel wheels, don't even balance them and run swampers. Oh yea, about that specific wheel you like. I agree, those "fins" looks like targets for getting beat up. Plus, I can just imagine how they would grab onto branches and pull debri with you. KEV
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Post by Jon W on Mar 11, 2006 21:55:42 GMT -5
Any pic Jon? I like to check out those 3" BS wheels under an XJ with stock flares... You still have stock flares right? Kai No pics yet, but I finished cutting the fenders today... I have a little painting to do tomorrow and I'll reinstall the flares and take one. The only other thing about a steel wheel is that, yes, it can be bent, but you can fix it with a BFH on the trail if you need to... If you buy quality steel wheels from a reputable place I don't think you will have trouble getting them to balance. With the LTBs one of the wheels took 2-3 oz to balance... The worst one (of 5) took 6-7 oz. JW
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Post by Scott on Mar 12, 2006 8:10:18 GMT -5
I for one will never run a steel wheel on a daily driver. A steel wheel will never balance as well as an aluminum wheel. KEV I do agree with this, and also I do want it to look good also. I intend to do moderate 4wheeling but it will be mostly a DD. (I know moderate turns into crazy prety quick ) Sticking to the point, Thanks for the replies! Comments on these Brand: American Racing Product Line: American Racing Equipment AR-23 Wheels Rim Diameter (in): 15 in. Rim Width (in): 7.00 in. Backspacing (in): 3.750 in. Offset (mm): -6.00mm Beadlock Functional: No Beadlock Included: No Rim Material: Cast aluminum Center Material: Cast aluminum Wheel Finish: Natural Lug Nut Seat Style: Conical seat Wheel Construction: 1-piece Conical Seat Taper: 60 degree Hub Centric: No Center Bore Diameter (in): 3.270 in. Center Cap Included: Yes Valve Stems Included: No Quantity: Sold individually. what Offset is best?by the way, these are only $94.99 from Summit ;D
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Post by ZAEDOCK on Mar 12, 2006 8:52:09 GMT -5
A steel wheel will never balance as well as an aluminum wheel. Where the alluminum wheel may "chip" a bit away, the steel wheel will bend and be out of round, adding to the balancing nightmare. Wrong. Steel can balance just as well as aluminum(if not better than cast). Steel bends. Cast Aluminum breaks. If you want aluminum wheels on a trail rig, then take the expense and go with forged aluminum. It bends like steel and can be welded better than cast if you really mess it up. Personally, I would never run anything but steel on a trail rig, that is, unless someone gave me aluminum wheels. ;D
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Post by Kevin W. on Mar 12, 2006 10:44:21 GMT -5
Let me re-phrase.
The steel wheels available to us in the aftermarket industry, such as a $35 american racing AR767 is a piece of low quality junk. It is very typical that they are out of round and will cause you all kinds of headaches.
If your jeep is already a trail rig that doesn't need to zoom around the highways to get to work, then it might make sense.
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Post by Jon W on Mar 12, 2006 17:36:02 GMT -5
Any pic Jon? I like to check out those 3" BS wheels under an XJ with stock flares... You still have stock flares right? Kai OK... As requested, I took a few pics and stuck them at the web site below... Oh, and yes, I'm using the stock flares (the ones I have came of Kevin W's '00 XJ). The tires do stick out a bit more than I'd like, but it isn't too bad. I would have gone with 3.5" BS if it had been an option. the shallower backspacing means I also picked up 2" of track width, wich is never a bad thing... www.pbase.com/jwatson/jeepshots I still have to cut the rear fender guards to clear the tires... JW
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Post by jpnjim on Mar 12, 2006 17:55:25 GMT -5
I've switched to cheap cast aluminum wheels too.
There's good deals around if you look.
I got (5) brand new Eagle Alloys (589 style) on Ebay for $250 + $50 shipping. (=$60 each to my door).
I looked for that deal again recently, but haven't seen it yet.
I got NTB to match a Sears sale of American Racing 15x8 Baja's, 4 for $300, for Kim's ZJ.
I also got PBL's Outlaw II style wheels from NTB for the MJ. 15x7's were $62.50 each, and 15x8.5's were $65. As for wheeling with cast aluminium vs steel offroad, I've had better luck with aluminum so far.
I've probably only wheeled 1/4 as many miles on alum vs steel, but have yet to have an alum wheel damaged to where it's not usable.
All damage has been cosmetic, even though they've taken hits that I thought wou've cracked, or bent them (cast aluminum will bend before it breaks, I've got a few cast motorcycle wheels with big bends in them).
With steel wheels, there's been atleast a dozen bends that needed straightening, 3, or 4 that had to be replaced when I got home, and atleast one that couldn't even be nursed back home. I'm sure I'll break an aluminum wheel sooner, or later, but so far I'm glad I switched.
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